Categories
winterizing checklist | winter living | water system | wash/protect
WINTERIZING CHECKLIST |
Below is the list I use when I park/store the RV during the winter - anytime the temperature will dip below 30 for any prolonged amount of time. | [back to top] |
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SURVIVING THE WINTER |
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How much or little of this you do really depends on how cold for how long. Protect the fresh water coming into the RV - get a Heated Hose with Thermostat. Fill your fresh water tank, use the pump, and leave the external water supply closed unless filling. Protect your fresh water storage - using one of these reptile heat lamps (Heating Lamp Stand, Heating Lamp Bulb and Auto On-Off Thermostat) and put it in your water bay. Protect your holding tanks - Add a small amount of RV Anti-Freeze to your drains so the holding tanks valves do not freeze. Most of the time, your tanks will be fine with just the heat from the RV. Keep your waste tank valves CLOSED until you need to dump and only dump when full, then re-add a bit of anti-freeze.
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WATER SYSTEM |
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Water tank and system disinfecting I usually do this about once per year or after the RV has been sitting for a long time unused. Use regular Clorox liquid bleach - nothing with added scent, etc.
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WASH/PROTECT |
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Whenever, Dry Wash If you do the annual full-wash, polish, and protect, you can do this whenever you need to clean and bring the shine back! This is really nice when staying at a park that does not allow water washing. Simply use the Aircraft/RV Wash with the wet/dry applicator. Spray the wet side of the applicator with wash and wipe off the grime, then use the dry side to bring the shine back! Work in 3 foot sections at a time. See the Wash Purchases area for full product descriptions/links |
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Annual Full-Wash, Polish, and Protect I do this yearly or whenever the "Whenever, Dry Wash" does not bring back the desired shine. This whole process usually takes me an entire day and should be done in cooler weather, so plan ahead. Make sure you have a lot of microfiber towels on hand! Start by using a pressure washer with a foam cannon with Auto Wash in it. This makes the wash go very fast! Use the medium scrub brush on the roof first and rinse the roof completely. Then move to the rest of the RV using the soft scrub brush on an extendable pole, then rinse. Next, polish. You will want to get this light weight polisher it is worth every cent! This is the most time consuming step. Use a good quality Polishing Glaze.If you have scratches, use a more abrasive polish like Diamond Cut Compound or Oxidation Remover Compound on those sections first, then come back with the regular polish. It is very important to work in small, 3 foot square sections because you do not want to let it dry before wiping off! (see Wash Purchases for polisher, polish, etc). Once polishing is complete, it is time to apply the high-gloss protection. This is done INSTEAD OF wax. With this you apply in TWO VERY THIN coats - this will give almost 100% UV protection on the finish and help to avoid oxidation (for removing oxidation, use an oxidation remover before polish). I apply with a separate polishing pad and work on half the RV at a time - apply to half, then go back and remove with the Microfiber Towels to finish the shine! To reach the roof and, especially, the front, I use two Little Giant Ladders with an Extendable Plank between them. I purchased these when I painted my house, so the cost was competey worth it. Not sure it would be worth it just for washing (but, this setup is ideal for it!) See the Wash Purchases area for full product descriptions and links. |